The stereotypical image of a BBQ eatery is a thing of shabby beauty: a shack by the side of a country road, blue smoke curling from a brick chimney, and a gravel parking lot full of Chevy pick-up trucks and Ford Rancheros. Inside the place is cramped, the walls have hundreds of stapled-on business cards, the place smells of years of hickory, the waitress is in Sanforized cotton, and the pit cook has one gold tooth.

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